Monday, August 15, 2011

a few more Oregon/California photos

The Boy Scout Tree

It's always sunny in Oregon

Trail description: From Lighthouse Rd Parking to Pacific Ocean

I'm frightened because...

our van looks like this. ... camping jambalaya.


Mount Adams


Do you ever get the itchy urge to do something extreme?  I do.  I get this drive to do something that kicks my butt and, at the time of doing, tends to be a miserable sufferfest.  But when all is said and done I can just feel totally, unselfishly awesome.  And I can think back on the glory days as I sit at a desk in Boise click-clicking on hundreds of squiggly trails I did not walk with features I never saw. 

Last weekend four of us planned an excursion to Washington to climb up Mt. Adams.  Last year I did trailwork on the PCT at the foot of Adams.  The mountain was our constant backdrop during work and in camp.  At night the full moon lit up the glaciers to ignite an alpine glow.  The idea of climbing up the mountain was intimidating and awesome.  Adams rises like a beast out of a rather subtle landscape in southern WA, giant, snow-covered, and 12,276 ft tall.  We drove to Washington on Friday and arrived after dark.  In the morning we could see Adams looming through the trees in our campsite.  We quickly ate breakfast and packed our bags and started on our way to hike the mountain.

“You and 220 others.”  The forest service lady was quite frank with us as she filled us in on the essentials: Drive slow to the trailhead, the road is single-lane most of the time and people drive too fast around blind curves.  Do not descend to the southwest, you will get hopelessly lost in trees.  Melting snow is the only way to get water at the lunch counter (base camp).  You share camp with hundred of others, some who do not dispose of their waste properly, so boil your water to avoid contracting an exotic disease.  Here are your WAG bags.  Use them.  Do not glissade with your crampons on, you will break a leg.  Be careful of cornices or you will find yourself taking the very quick way to the bottom.  She was lovely.  Once we had our permits and our map we drove that crazy mountain road to the trailhead.

Our boots hit the trail by 10:30.  It was pretty rough from that moment on.  The unfortunate thing about climbing up a mountain is that… it’s all up.  There is really no relief.  So we went up.  Up into the snow that relentlessly reflected the sun so our skin was exposed in every possible place.  The underside of my nose has never been so abused.  When we felt like we were nearing Lunch Counter (our base camp for the night) we started asking people on their way down about how far we were…. the first guy said 800 feet.  About 20 minutes on, the second guy said 900 feet.  The third guy, a bit further on, told us 1,000 feet. These were not comforting predictions.  At that point I just put my head down and walked.  We made it to Lunch Counter at about 3 pm.

UP!

View of Mt Hood from our tent


Mountain shadow
Melting snow for water
We found a cozy place to set up tents.  There are lots of rock wind-barriers set up, so we snagged a few of those and when the tents were up we climbed in a laid down flat for a good while with our boots off.  Too soon we had to get up and start the process of melting snow for drinking water the next day.  It took forever. 


We went to bed with the sun because we planned to get up at 3 am to continue to the top.  Unfortunately at 3 am the wind was howling and the tents were flapping like mad tethered birds trying to take flight.  It was not the sort of morning that gets you out of your sleeping bag easily.  So we reconsidered.  Set the alarm for 5 and tried to keep sleeping despite the racket.  At 5 nothing much had changed, but after peeking out the tent and seeing clear blue skies we decided we better get a move on.  We got some coffee and food in our bellies and got all decked out in gaiters, crampons, ice axes, hats and gloves, and sunglasses.   


The morning was just one step at a time.  I was just reciting to myself, “step.  step.  ice axe.” repeat.  It was a good rhythm.  Right before we got to the false summit (the think that looks like the top of the mountain, till you get there and realize the top of the mountain is still a good ways off) we were surrounded by swirling cloud wisps.  
clouds found us


Nothing too bad, but we couldn’t see too much in our immediate surroundings.  And we definitely could not see the view or the real summit.  But we’d come so far, so further we went!  To the summit!  We made it around 11 am.  It was very cold and very windy.  No view to speak of.  But it was exhilarating.  We took some pictures and ate a nearly frozen pb&j and then scurried back down to warmth and sunshine. 
Toji, Dave, Me, and Christina on top of a mountain

weeee! and now I'm ready to return to the safe life I remember at 2,000 feet
The decent was more of an amusement park ride.  There was a glissade chute that took you down about 2000 feet from the false summit back to lunch counter.  You just sit your butt down in the chute, position your ice axe for braking, and ZOOM.  You fly down that hill. 

Our trip ended with a beer and a burger in Hood River and a seven hour drive with 5 people, 5 packs, and plenty of miscellaneous gear in a tiny Honda civic.  We got back into Boise at 4 am.  It was great.  I plan on climbing more mountains as soon as possible.


 

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Or-y-gon, Californ-i-ya, and Idy-ho!


This July I was sent to inventory trails in Oregon, with a little dip into northern California for a few refuges on the border, and one refuge in Idaho before we landed at home.  Being that this hitch was relatively close to Idaho, Toji and I didn’t have to book flights anywhere and instead just picked up our rental minivan in the morning, packed it full of our bags of things and cases of technology, a stove, tents, a cooler of food and a box of dry goods, our bikes, and the four-foot level.  It was a full load, and despite both of our tendencies to be rather disorganized, we didn’t lose anything.  With the doors slammed closed we took to the road and drove to our first refuge, Malheur NWR, in eastern Oregon.  The high, hot desert.  We camped about in the middle of the 40-mile long refuge and got to see one of those clear desert sunsets and moon-rises.

            Between Malheur and the CA refuges we drove through Bend, OR for an important Deschutes brewery tour.  We spent one night in Deschutes National Forest cozied up with mosquitoes and hit Crater Lake NP in the morning.  We only had time for one hike.  The park had lots of snow still, and we couldn’t get to the top of the hike we were doing, but we managed to get up to the rim by making our own path through the snow.  It is beautiful.
Toji at Crater Lake

            The first three refuges (Malhuer in Oregon and Tule Lake and Lower Klamath in California) were all hot and dry.  While we worked at Tule Lake and Lower Klamath we got to stay in Lava Beds National Monument.  Once we set up our camp we pulled our bikes out of the van and rode around to see some caves.  Lava Beds has all these lava tubes that are totally undeveloped besides a staircase down into them.  Once you get down there it gets very dark, very cold, and very quiet.  There are lots of passage ways off the main route that make you think about what it would be like to get lost in that dark, cold silence.  We turned off our headlamps and sat quietly until my mind started to wander into thoughts I didn’t want to have down there.  So we flipped our lights back on and felt a little better, but turned around anyway.  One that we went into was called Gold Dome and the walls and ceiling were covered with this wet gold/silvery fungus that sparkled like a room with gold-flecked walls. 
Skull Cave is giant
We stayed in Lava Beds for a couple nights and then drove to Redwoods National Park for the weekend.  Both times I’ve been to Redwoods I’ve been coming out of the desert, and that makes me appreciate all the green, moist forest even more.  We took a few hikes, craning our necks to see the tops of those giant trees.  We sort of accidentally ended up hiking from the 101 all the way down to the ocean.  So much downhill… the entire time all I could think was so much uphill.  But it was worth it.  We popped out right on the Pacific.  And the uphill wasn’t even that bad.


Following our weekend we had work at three refuges on the Oregon coast and one outside of Corvallis.  William L. Finley NWR was outside of Corvallis in the Williamette River Valley and had lots of work.  We stayed there for a few nights in a trailer.  The refuge was beautiful and the trails were actually trails!  There was also poison oak everywhere but we so far seem to have escaped untouched.  Our contact at the refuge was very friendly and ended up interviewing us for the refuge newsletter.

We spent our second weekend in Portland staying with Toji’s cousin.  We ended up pitching our tent in his backyard for a few reasons, but maybe mostly because his cousin is in a rock band and it was just better/quieter in the yard.  We went and saw his band play a show—they’re called Raremonk.  Look them up if you like rock.  We did lots of biking around the city.  I got to drink cup after cup of great coffee and go to Powells bookstore twice.  We bought raspberries and breakfast burritos at the farmers market.  And I caught up with one of my friends for a while.  It was a good time, although there was lots of rain.  Portland is a great city, but I was not really in a city mood, so when we drove out to the coast on Monday it was a relief. 

Our last coastal refuges were pretty ideal.  One trail led to a giant Sitka spruce, one led to the ocean shore, and the other ones all ended at nice scenic overlooks.  We visited the Tillamook cheese factory… it was on the way, twice.  We watched hundreds of giant blocks of cheese be cut down to baby loafs and wrapped up in their packaging.  Then we sampled all the cheese and then since the sample line shot us right out into the ice cream line, we had ice cream as well.  It was great.  Also an alarming display of fat Americans in bad dress eating cubes of cheese and over-sized ice cream cones.  Sorry to be brutal; just reporting what I saw.

            We finished all of our scheduled work a bit early so we rather leisurely made our way back to Idaho.  We drove through the Columbia River Gorge and stopped at Maltnomah Falls.  We stayed near Hood River for a night and did a big hike in the gorge before driving further toward Idaho.  We ended our hitch at Deer Flat NWR in Nampa, ID.  Only 45 minutes from home. 
Overlooking the Columbia River Gorge from Dog Mountain

            It was a grand tour of Oregon.  Being home has never felt quite so good as it does now.  Fortunately I am a Boise office peon next hitch, meaning I get to sleep in the same bed every night.  At the cost of staring at the same computer screen every day.  But I am willing.  It’s HOT in Boise.  But we have our ways… on Wednesday we left work a bit early to float the Boise river.  We rented four tubes and two rafts and jumped in the cool, cool river.  Then you just relax and try to not hit trees on the riverside as you float to the takeout about an hour and a half downriver.  There seems to be hundreds of people floating the river everyday here… it’s a fantastic way to escape the heat.

            This weekend we’ll trade Boise heat for Washington snow.  Five of us are going to attempt to stand on top of Mount Adams… 12,500 ft up in the sky. 

            I’ll try to write another post while I’m in Boise.  My days will be filled with linear referencing, the oddly satisfying but totally intangible job of measuring the distance of each feature point we take from its respective trailhead.  And cleaning up the massive mess of data we have created for ourselves.  When my mind becomes too boggled by little numbers that are supposed to match little lines and little dots on my computer screen, I will find relief in writing a little update.